Met a couple of spanish sisters who celebrated their retirement with a trip to Samoa. Mina and Maria 60 and 61, they needed a chauffeur to take them around Savai'i, Samoa's western island. "Ladies, I'll take you", I said somehow joking. But said words are true words, so off we went! Apia to Salelologa by boat, joined by playful dolphins flipping in the swell. Found a hidden lagoon where water bungalows made a perfect home base for the week ahead. We soon made good friends with the cheeky and fun staff, letting me help out in the bar and take their kayak out to explore the water. In a little green car me and the spanish sisters took off. Incredible nature was what we met: vulcano ground topped with rain forest, lined by dream beaches, closed in by coral reef, surrounded by crystal clear water...
Left my cool sisters for some days to adventure on my own. Starting with taking a bus to Lano beach where I met a devastated man, he kept a small family business of beach fales. Explaining how a big cyclone had hit a few weeks earlier to wash big parts of the beach away, including seven fales. The ones still standing now with 2 meters of its poles visable and scratched by the storm. Although this misfortune the man with his family kept the positive spirit up, inviting me and some other visitors for a big umu lunch on a Sunday. I decided to stay for two nights to support these kindhearted people. Sleeping in those fales was like meditation: with the breeze through open walls and waves reaching in underneth the floor. Waking up by sunbeams reflected by a light blue surface.
Had heard about this other beach, Falealupo. On the west end of the island making the spot in the world to see the last sunset of each day. The way to get there was awkward, but so worth it. A two hours bus ride until someone announced "Falealupo!". Got off, in the middle of the bush on a clay road with no coastline to be seen. Started to walk in one direction and eventually passed a house where a man chilled out in a sunchair. I explained where I was going and he looked at me with big eyes: "far far away". "How far?", I asked. "30 minutes by car". He offered to take me there in his "taxi". Too hot to bother trying to find my way I hopped in, unaware that the beach was hiding just a couple of kilometres further down the road. The 10 k/h we travelled in explained the "30 minutes ride", couldn't do anything but laugh and pay my private taxi driver.
What I expected to be a well visited beach turned out to be empty. Not a soul was to be caught sight of, so I put my bag down and stepped into the most clear water. When glancing out towards the reef I saw two snorkels, so I swam out. A french couple who got surpriced to see me, they explained that they were the only ones staying here and that a lady comes from the village every day to cook and take payments for her fales. They lend me their snorkel gear so I got to see this untouched coral with incredible colorful fish. Difted away in time and space and when I got back to the beach the sun started to go down. The lady had cooked fish and taro in coconut, which we all ate watching the last sunset. Fullfilled and in total harmony I fell asleep that night, to the sound of soothing swell.