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Just nu lyssnar ju näst intill enbart till Niki & The Doves nya album Everybody's Heart Is Broken Now som släpptes tidigare i våras. Albumet är en salig blandning av syntiga popsånger á la 80-tal och känslosamma ballader. Bandet själva beskriver albumet till tidningen Café som ”en dance romance-skiva med futuristisk ambition” och jag tycker att det är helt fantastiskt.

Favoritlåtarna är So Much It Hurts, Play It On My radio, Miami Beach, You Stole My Heart Away & Shark City, eller ja, i princip hela plattan!

Lyssna eller köp här:

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- iTunes

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Denna kampanj av Acne Studios är en av mina favoriter någonsin. Acne Studio's Jonny Johansson valde att porträttera hans egen son, då 12 åriga Frasse, i märkets Womenswear kampanj. Kampanjen ska enligt Johansson inte representera kön utan en ny generation utav mode där kön inte längre spelar roll.

Han sa till DAZED Magazine: “I’ve seen this new generation’s attitude to fashion where the cut, the shape and the character of the garment is the crucial thing, rather then seeking approval from society or to follow set norms,”

Heja!

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Känns som att hela mitt liv varit en virvelvind utav stress och en ihållande förkylning de senaste 14 dagarna. Något slags lugn har jag funnit i att vara inne på tumblr, slaviskt följa fashion week och kolla på en dokumentär där Karl Lagerfeld skissar sitt liv. 

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Världens underbaraste och bästa Mariacarla Boscono för Interview Germany! Är typ kär.

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Helginspiration i form utav metallic-byxor och skimrande ögonskugga från februarinumret av spanska VOGUE.

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​Älskar ribbat i alla dess former till sommaren, linnen, polotröjor, byxor och klänningar. Tycker speciellt om mixen av naturfärgade plagg tillsammans med marinblått och guldiga smycken som på fjärde bilden samt bekväma set som femte bilden som kommer från en Styleby editorial av Benjamin Vnuk. 

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The most exciting trend to emerge at the start of 2016 isn't to be found on the runways but in the backstage corridors of fashion's most powerful and exciting houses; the changing attitudes of designers towards the traditional fashion week schedule.

In case you didn't know or need a reminder, men's and women's collections are shown twice a year in New York, London, Milan and Paris. For the fashion press and buyers, that's four months of the year on the road, and for designers, especially those who design for both sexes, its four shows a year. Not to mention Couture, Cruise, and Pre-Collections, all of which merit at least a lookbook if not a show or presentation. Essentially it's out of control, and the entire fashion system feels close to exhaustion.

Into this maelstrom of completely knackered people stepped Burberry. Under Christopher Bailey, who's both CEO and designer, the British house is seen as an tech innovator, if not necessarily a fashion one, so perhaps it's no surprise that they would lead the charge. Last week they announced that they intend to combine their two menswear shows, previously held in January and June, and two womenswear shows in February and September into just two shows combining all genders. For a house of this size, this seems a great idea, and fights the viewer fatigue that can come from a quarterly showing of trench coats.

Even more revolutionary however will be that the clothes will be available to buy immediately, and the advertising campaign will be released at the time of the show. This confronts another timing issue - frankly, by the time clothes reach stores, we're over them. There's already been another show, rip-offs are available on the high street, and we've seen the campaign on social media for months before it reached print magazines. This way, Burberry can retain that initial impact.

Following hot on their heels was Tom Ford's announcement that he'd be delaying his autumn/winter showing till September to coincide with the product hitting his stores. Referring to the four month gap between runway and retail as "from another era", Ford seemed to firmly align his house with the future in this move, where customers will be able to see Gigi et al smoldering down the runway and then be able to run out and buy the same garments.

Whilst both these moves are brave, the reality is that both Burberry and Tom Ford are enormous companies with slick, vertically integrated systems - they have both the size to absorb any initial financial shock, and the money to implement their plans.

This is why it's interesting that the third brand making an announcement last week was Vetements, the Parisian collective helmed by Demna Gvasalia, and currently the most critically young feted label, who in three collections have introduced a whole new silhouette into the fashion world. Despite having a plethora of stockists, the young label isn't exactly at Burberry level yet - their currency is in cool rather than cold hard cash. "Showing men's and women's at the same time connects us to real life. Today, men wear womenswear and women dress in men's clothes. Gender is not a given fact anymore; a person has a right to choose one. Times change. Splitting genders in two is against the natural flow of today's reality" said CEO Guram Gvasalia to Vogue.

All true. Just as relevant however is the fact that most retailers spend the majority of their budgets on pre collections. Vetements showing their collection in January, two months before show season, means their main collection has an extended shelf life. Echoing comments made by Raf Simons shortly before his departure from Dior, Guram believes that giving designers time, in this case his brother, is essential to their creativity, and thus two collections a year is vastly preferable to say, six.

What do all these changes mean? Currently, not a lot - until they've been given a few seasons to mature, the three brands serve as test cases for the rest of the industry. Despite the clout of Burberry, it doesn't quite have the same impact as if say LVMH made all their brands' collections available after the shows. Or the Kering group combined all their collections into two genderless presentations.

It is however a step in the right direction - never mind designers and press fatigue, more exhausting would be having to read another article about how tired they all are. The solution is to do less. I know that's facetious, and there are lots of factors, but it's sort of true. I mean, if Burberry can do it, why can't they too?

Best case scenario; Burberry makes a killing. Bored customers flock to their stores, both online and concrete, and buy the beautiful collection they've just witnessed. Press are thrilled to see a Burberry show, there now only being two a year. It's quite an event. Tom Ford reclaims his place as king of exclusivity. And Vetements retain their outsider allure, not having to dilute their brand with pre collections. The sea change that revitalises the industry, is widely imitated, and everyone goes back to making lots of money - people want to buy fashion.

The worst case scenario would be both Burberry and Ford having a go at it, it doesn't work, so they go back to traditional presentation methods. There isn't really a worst case scenario for Vetements - whatever they do is going to be achingly cool. They just might sell a few less hoodies.

Hopefully what will result is a middle ground. Due to a few less shows, fashion slows down a little bit. Clients respond with renewed enthusiasm for a product they perceive as more exclusive and exciting. Designers are less tired and do more brilliant work. If just one of these things happened, it's worth it.

Publicerad den 9/2-2016 på i-D.Vice.com av Jack Sunnucks

Foto av Jason Lloyd Evans, Vetements spring/summer 16

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Slacks, Loafers & Ribbad tunika från Filippa K

Mules, Örhängen & Solglasögon från Céline

Sweater med dragkedja, Ribbad topp och vida byxor & Örhänge från & Other Stories

Dessa plagg/accessoarer/skor har fått det att klia lite extra i mina fingrar denna veckan, speciellt outfiten helt i marint från Filippa K.

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För att inte gör aset förra inlägget allt för långt så valde jag att dela upp det i två delar, med mina absoluta favoriter i detta. Vill bo i den här lägenheten, vill ha golvet, växterna och stolen. Drake Burnette, Elizabeth Davison, Mona Matsuoka fotograferade av Dario Catellani för Numeró China.

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